Hiking in Iceland: Thórsmörk
In 2010, a Volcano erupted in Southern Iceland. This eruption occurred near a popular hiking path from Skógar to Thórsmörk. Luckily, during my trip, the hiking route was opened. The terrain was difficult and cut the hike short but the views along the way were mesmerizing.
On my eight hour flight to Iceland, there was a lot of time to spare. The movie selection wasn’t great. And, then I saw the film, “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty.” Ben Stiller was in it and I figured it had to be decent. I started watching and realized, hey this is in Iceland. I turned to Corey and was like did you know this? And, he responded, yes I told you 10 times about this movie…..I’m not a good listener. As I watched, I would pause the movie every 20 minutes and say is this where we are going?!?!?! There was one scene where a volcano erupted and had Ben Stiller’s character running for cover. Pause again, I turn to Corey, are we going to see this? And he said, uh, we are hiking this. Oh snap. It’s about to go down. Eyjafjallajökull, you read that right, is a small ice cap located in Southern Iceland. In March, 2010, thousands of earthquakes were detected and caused an eruption in Fimmvörðuháls, the area of a popular hiking route from Skógar to Thórsmörk, which was then proceeded by a much more violent eruption at the top of the volcano, beneath the glacier. This second eruption caused massive floodwater to pour down the side of the volcano. Over 800 people were evacuated and Iceland’s Glacial Lagoons were destroyed. This even caused a stir with air traffic in Europe, which was paused for numerous days. Four years later, the devastation was still visible and lava was still smoking on the side of the volcano. As luck would have it, the hiking trails were opened and hikers can travel the route and take in these new views. And, that is what we planned to do if the weather permitted. We booked a night at the Volcano Huts in Thórsmörk, which was an awesome experience even if we didn’t attempt a hike. We had to take an hour long bus ride into Thórsmörk, crossing streams and passing glacier tongues.
The initial plan was to hike the entire trail close to 16 miles, see some lava. As we got closer, we realized there was no way we could safely make it to the Fimmvörðuháls pass. However, we like exploration and adventure. We decided to continue with our bold plan until we just couldn’t go on. Try to see as much as we can. You never know if you will be back.
After speaking with the guide at the hut, we started our trek onto the beginning of the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The trail began with small brooks through a woodsy path. And, just like that we were exposed to a large field and a visual of glacial capped mountains. The next section of the hike was an enormous, rocky flood plain that we had to cross. There was a mobile bridge positioned at the end of the rocky terrain where the river was currently running through. We made our way across the bridge to the base of the snowy mountain on the opposite end of the valley where we started. We began our accent up the mountain and the terrain quickly transformed as snow began to appear. We crossed paths with our first hiker of the day heading the opposite direction. We made sure we were going in the right direction and were informed that the terrain was going to get dicey. And, there were currently blizzard conditions farther up the trail. We had packed for the worst, tents, extra clothing and food, so we continued on. Goals of lava steaming were still in sight.
As we made our way up the side of the mountain, patches of snow turned into thick layers of snow. And, this is where things got interesting. There weren’t any prior footprints to just step in as no one had dared to travel this far. We had to carefully, side step along the along the ridge line. Or else we were going sledding down the side of the mountain and……goodbye. We passed multiple sections of pure snow/ice drifts on this very steep mountain slope. Definitely one of the times I had some actual fear and wanting to maybe just turn around. But, persistence always prevails. Eventually we reached the top of the ridge trail and proceeded onto flat land covered in volcanic ash, mud, and rocks. We continued to trek across the this plain until we reached the cliff on the opposite side of the mountain.
At this point, the remainder of the trail looked too risky. As we would need to descend down between the mountains and ascend back up. After what we just did along the ridge line, we called it at this point. We regrouped and chomped on treats to refuel. Then, Corey noticed smoke on the side of the mountain and realized that it was cooling lava. We have attained our goal of seeking lava! The scene was remarkable. The experience was epic. This is what HikingforDonuts is all about. Push yourself, go beyond your comfort zone, and discover what’s out there. .....Then eat a donut ☺.
HIKING FOR DONUTS
A blog for the outdoors foodie enthusiast
Hi, I’m Mark. I live in Connecticut. I take new trips every chance I get. A good trip has a great hike, great food, and something fun to do. My goal is to search out new trips and share them to inspire others to try something new and exciting.
If you are looking for posts in a particular place, search by city or state here.
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Exploring Iceland, Part 1
Iceland is one of the more popular destinations for travel right now. Back in 2014, my college friends and I explored 10 days and 1400 miles. It was the most adventurous trip I have ever been on. Here are some of the sights and destinations of that trip.
Iceland is one of my favorite travel destinations. My trip consisted of 10 days of nonstop adventure. This was before it was the "cool thing to do". Iceland travel is everywhere on social media right now. I come across one person a month who has gone or is going. And, rightly so. Iceland is a great country and there is so much exploring. Back in 2014, my friend, Corey, brought up the idea of Iceland. I thought he was a bit whacky and told him to give me more details. As per usual, Corey was able to persuade myself and our other traveling friend, Nancy. This would be the first big exploration in another country. Corey spent over 3 months vehemently planning and creating the ultimate itinerary. And, he succeeded. I just sat back and looked at pictures for months. As the time came close, I was really excited. We had plans of driving all over the country, lots of hiking, hot spring swimming, eating different food, and taking in the culture. This post will focus on some areas of the trip. I will post the hikes separately because they were so awesome. I want to provide a small peek of what Iceland can offer. A new country can be daunting but the risk is worth the reward.
Raufarholshellir Lava Tube Cave
We flew into Reykjavík, picked up our tiny rental car and packed it to the brim. Seriously, the smallest rental I have had and it needed to fit 3 people plus 6 bags. Side note, the best decision we made was renting a car. We drove over 1400 miles and it was amazing. As I digress….we arrived 1am their time and went right to bed. Our trip was in June and it is light 24 hours a day during that time frame. Needless to say, we didn’t sleep much. In addition, we were welcomed with wind and rain that morning but that didn’t stop us from our exploration of Iceland. The objective of this day was to find a lava tube cave, explore, and save $200 not using a guide. Lava tubes are formed by flowing lava which moves beneath the hardened surface of a lava flow. Some are active and will drain lava from a volcano. Some are extinct where the lava flow has stopped, cooled the rock, and left behind a long cave. We were definitely looking for an extinct one. Corey did quite a bit of research to even find information on where to locate one. This info is kept under wraps as most tour guides will not give this out in order to charge for the services. However, we are bad asses. We brought our own helmets and lighting. After driving up and down roads, we eventually found the Raufarholshellir lava cave, which ranks as the third largest in the country at 1360 meters long. Parking was located in a big, rocky lava field. Ironically, the only other vehicle in the lot was an Extreme Iceland tour van.
The beginning of the cave was pretty open with large spotlights where the roof had collapsed. As we descended down, it became more cave like. The ceiling was dripping water as the rain was able to get through. We eventually cross paths with the tour group and the tour guide reassured us of our path. As we went further, it got darker and darker. At one point, we all decided to turn our lights off. It was the darkest setting I have ever been in. It was surreal.
The terrain got more difficult as we reached the end of the tunnel. There was supposed to be a waterfall at the end but it was more of a fossilized cliff of the lava rock near the hole of the ceiling. We made our way back but not without a little scare. There were two tunnels to go down. We only went down one?!?!? I am horrible with directions. Nancy…is Nancy. That left Corey to make the decision. Even though we were concerned as some features seemed different, he made the right decision and we survived. Close call. Always be mindful of your surroundings, especially in a cave.
United States Navy plane crash
Our next adventure was a real surprise. Corey planned everything for the trip. I just handed over money and got on a plane. He took us to the middle of nowhere looking at map coordinates only. We parked the car on the side of the road, packed up our bags, and he said just walk this way. I had no idea where were going. After an hour had passed, we continued to walk through the black sand and I could barely see our car. I saw 4x4 tire tracks so I knew we were close to our destination. I saw the ocean. Then out of nowhere, there was an empty wrecked plane that had crashed resting in the black sand. There were other tourists groups there taking photos and touring the plane.
This was the remains of United States Navy plane. The Douglas Super DC-3 made a crash landing on November 24, 1973. The crew survived and left the wreckage behind and was abandoned. I know this tidbit now. Of course, I ran toward the scene with excitement and accidentally ruined the tourist’s pictures. We ended up taking pictures and exploring the inside for about an hour before we made our trek back to the car. This was an awesome experience and never did I anticipate it would happen in Iceland.
Seljalandsfoss
We did our best hitting every attraction and destination we could fit in our schedule through 10 days from Höfn to Grundarfjördur. I felt like I was in a different country each day. We went from gray volcano ash scenery to beautiful bright green landscape to clear blue water and beaches to mountains and glaciers.What an amazing country. And, if you like waterfalls, Iceland is the place for you. I imagine I seen more in 10 days than my entire life. The first one we came across was Seljalandsfoss. This waterfall was awesome from the road and even more amazing up close. This was the biggest waterfall I have seen. And, you can walk under the waterfall into a small cave.
Skógafoss
The next waterfall we came across was Skógafoss, one of the biggest waterfalls in the country. This waterfall is notorious for the visibility of rainbows on sunny days.
Reynisdrangar
The first black sand beach we visited was Reynisdrangar. I couldn't believe this existed in Iceland. I continued to be awestruck over the landscape of the country. And, this is barely 1/4 of the trip. More to come soon....#Icelandisawesome.
HIKING FOR DONUTS
A blog for the outdoors foodie enthusiast
Hi, I’m Mark. I live in Connecticut. I take new trips every chance I get. A good trip has a great hike, great food, and something fun to do. My goal is to search out new trips and share them to inspire others to try something new and exciting.
If you are looking for posts in a particular place, search by city or state here.
EXPLORE OTHER POSTS IN THE ARCHIVE
RECOMMENDED POSTS
MOST RECENT POSTS
See where I have been recently on Instagram. Follow @HIKINGFORDONUTS