On my eight hour flight to Iceland, there was a lot of time to spare. The movie selection wasn’t great. And, then I saw the film, “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty.” Ben Stiller was in it and I figured it had to be decent. I started watching and realized, hey this is in Iceland. I turned to Corey and was like did you know this? And, he responded, yes I told you 10 times about this movie…..I’m not a good listener. As I watched, I would pause the movie every 20 minutes and say is this where we are going?!?!?! There was one scene where a volcano erupted and had Ben Stiller’s character running for cover. Pause again, I turn to Corey, are we going to see this? And he said, uh, we are hiking this. Oh snap. It’s about to go down. Eyjafjallajökull, you read that right, is a small ice cap located in Southern Iceland. In March, 2010, thousands of earthquakes were detected and caused an eruption in Fimmvörðuháls, the area of a popular hiking route from Skógar to Thórsmörk, which was then proceeded by a much more violent eruption at the top of the volcano, beneath the glacier. This second eruption caused massive floodwater to pour down the side of the volcano. Over 800 people were evacuated and Iceland’s Glacial Lagoons were destroyed. This even caused a stir with air traffic in Europe, which was paused for numerous days. Four years later, the devastation was still visible and lava was still smoking on the side of the volcano. As luck would have it, the hiking trails were opened and hikers can travel the route and take in these new views. And, that is what we planned to do if the weather permitted. We booked a night at the Volcano Huts in Thórsmörk, which was an awesome experience even if we didn’t attempt a hike. We had to take an hour long bus ride into Thórsmörk, crossing streams and passing glacier tongues.
The initial plan was to hike the entire trail close to 16 miles, see some lava. As we got closer, we realized there was no way we could safely make it to the Fimmvörðuháls pass. However, we like exploration and adventure. We decided to continue with our bold plan until we just couldn’t go on. Try to see as much as we can. You never know if you will be back.
After speaking with the guide at the hut, we started our trek onto the beginning of the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The trail began with small brooks through a woodsy path. And, just like that we were exposed to a large field and a visual of glacial capped mountains. The next section of the hike was an enormous, rocky flood plain that we had to cross. There was a mobile bridge positioned at the end of the rocky terrain where the river was currently running through. We made our way across the bridge to the base of the snowy mountain on the opposite end of the valley where we started. We began our accent up the mountain and the terrain quickly transformed as snow began to appear. We crossed paths with our first hiker of the day heading the opposite direction. We made sure we were going in the right direction and were informed that the terrain was going to get dicey. And, there were currently blizzard conditions farther up the trail. We had packed for the worst, tents, extra clothing and food, so we continued on. Goals of lava steaming were still in sight.
As we made our way up the side of the mountain, patches of snow turned into thick layers of snow. And, this is where things got interesting. There weren’t any prior footprints to just step in as no one had dared to travel this far. We had to carefully, side step along the along the ridge line. Or else we were going sledding down the side of the mountain and……goodbye. We passed multiple sections of pure snow/ice drifts on this very steep mountain slope. Definitely one of the times I had some actual fear and wanting to maybe just turn around. But, persistence always prevails. Eventually we reached the top of the ridge trail and proceeded onto flat land covered in volcanic ash, mud, and rocks. We continued to trek across the this plain until we reached the cliff on the opposite side of the mountain.
At this point, the remainder of the trail looked too risky. As we would need to descend down between the mountains and ascend back up. After what we just did along the ridge line, we called it at this point. We regrouped and chomped on treats to refuel. Then, Corey noticed smoke on the side of the mountain and realized that it was cooling lava. We have attained our goal of seeking lava! The scene was remarkable. The experience was epic. This is what HikingforDonuts is all about. Push yourself, go beyond your comfort zone, and discover what’s out there. .....Then eat a donut ☺.
HIKING FOR DONUTS
A blog for the outdoors foodie enthusiast
Hi, I’m Mark. I live in Connecticut. I take new trips every chance I get. A good trip has a great hike, great food, and something fun to do. My goal is to search out new trips and share them to inspire others to try something new and exciting.
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